The slow lane of the NC500: How to travel responsibly on Scotland’s wildest road trip

Why would I enjoy it?

This is proper rural Scotland – dramatically scenic, with narrow roads winding through hills that loom above you and along the edge of the sea. Along the way you’ll find incredible hikes, superb wildlife watching, the remnants of Pictish history and beaches that look like they should be washed by the Mediterranean, although the water temperature is only for the brave.  

What are the different regions?

There are six main sections of the NC500 – The Black Isle, Caithness, Easter Ross, Inverness-shire, Sutherland and Wester Ross (no, not that one). The Black Isle, which is neither an island nor black, Inverness-shire and Easter Ross are the south-eastern sections and easiest to access thanks to having Inverness as a central point. Caithness is the north-east tip and Wester Ross, unsurprisingly, is the bit down the western coast, past Ullapool. That leaves Sutherland, the largest and most remote section, which winds across the very northern edge of the mainland UK. 

Do I need to do the whole thing?

Not at all. The exact route is 516 miles, but the six regions the NC500 is divided into each make for a good few days of wandering. We’d actually recommend NOT trying to do the whole thing at once, because going slower gives you a chance to engage with and support the local businesses you’ll find along the way.  

Isn’t there some controversy around it?

Well, sort of. While it has undeniably been good for local tourism, some think that it’s put too much strain on infrastructure, although new investment is coming to help ameliorate problems that come with limited facilities, especially for campervans. The main concern is that convoys of caravans and drivers distracted by the scenery cause traffic jams and accidents on the narrow roads, while there are also some people who see the roads as a challenge and race round the route in high-powered sports cars.    

So how do I do it responsibly?

The best piece of advice we could give you is to visit fewer locations and spend a few days in each. While the NC500 is billed as a road trip, that doesn’t mean you have to sprint round the whole thing. Staying in one or two places for longer will mean interacting more with local businesses and getting a better feel for where you are. Travelling outside of peak summer months is a great idea too, as the roads and beauty spots will be clearer, although you should still try and use passing places as much as possible to let people overtake. It may be a scenic road trip for you, but the locals are trying to get to work!  

Are there alternatives to the NC500?

In fact, yes! Building on the success of the NC500, another innovative team created The Heart 200, a tour of central Scotland, a few years ago. The site is an invaluable resource for anyone who wants to venture over the bridge from Edinburgh and explore all the way up to the Cairngorms. Being much further south, it’s more accessible than the NC500 and yet still features the landscape of the Trossachs, the river-striped east and historic Stirling.  

How to get started – places and bases

The first thing to do when you’re planning your NC500 trip is to pick an area, a section of the route or, if you’re lucky enough to be taking in the whole thing, a direction of travel. Here are some places to base yourself for the whole, or part of your trip.

Explore our collection of special places to stay in Scotland > 

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