Rifugio Salvin

Beppe has seen his mountain-top home transform from a simple, sleep-on-hay refuge to a busy, happy, self-sufficient B&B. His love for the place is contagious and Susan, his wife, has been affected. With a small staff they produce and grow much – milk, toma and ricotta cheese, pasta, bread, vegetables – and still find time to nurture goats, pigs, cows, dogs and guests. The guests are Italian cyclists and walkers; the food is simple, generous and delicious. Once here, you’ll probably stay: the nearest town is Monastero di Lanzo, a bumpy five-mile drive away, best negotiated in a 4×4. Beppe and Susan gladly organise trips to Lanzo and Santuario di Marsaglia and excursions into the forest too; hikers, nature lovers and kids who love animals will be in heaven. The set up? Bakery and workshops in the basement; bar, restaurant and guests’ rooms above; patio across the courtyard; terrace out the front. Each bedroom is sweet, spotless and comes with a dreamy view, but if you’re looking for total privacy go for the cottage below, immersed in pasture, with its own sitting room and kitchen, sleeping a family of four.