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There’s always something going on around this 13th-century house. You’re in the heart of medieval Vézénobres with its ancient cobbled streets and painted shutters, so head out to meet the colourful, friendly locals or hide yourselves away with a glass of something chilled on the sunny terrace with gorgeous views.
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Tuesdays from 19.00 in July and August
Pick a meal from one of the seven or eight food trucks and go and find a spot among the locals – probably about 400 of them. Live music helps to swell the bustling atmosphere and you can practise your French on whomever you are sitting next to – they do like it when you try!
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1-minute walk
This lively village bar – a hotspot for all the villagers – is run by a young, dynamic couple called Leo and Melodie. There is seating inside and out and live music groups throughout the summer – but do not fear, you can’t hear them from the house. The food is simple, tasty and always well-presented.
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A super restaurant owned by Sylvain with a pretty terrace and cosy interior. Always delicious! Summer fare includes tagines and delicious chestnut desserts. Winter menus are just as good, especially if you like hearty food like andouillette – a French pork sausage.
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Five-minute drive
Simple food beautifully prepared from local and seasonal ingredients. Always good.
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From the village
Find a myriad of footpaths behind the village for lovely walks through the ‘garrigue’ of dry stone and holm oaks. In the house is a book of walks you can do from the door or drive to a spot and then walk – they are all described in terms of distance and the landscapes to be found.
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Le Lac des Cambous
Just beyond Ales is a heavenly swimming lake – choose a secluded spot under the trees and stay all day, or head to Mialet, the tiniest of villages at the gate to the Cevennes, that offers the prettiest river spot for swimming below the impressive cliffs. In the other direction, kayak from Collias to the mightily impressive Roman Pont du Gard.
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The Cevennes
1.5-hour drive
A gloriously wild landscape far away from traffic. You can even stay overnight at the Mas de la Barque which offers walking advice with wild swimming. They offer food and drink too, so all you have to do is eat and go to bed. It’s a wonderful spot with fantastic star-filled dark skies on clear nights.
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The Fig Festival
One-minute walk
There is a fig festival on the last weekend of September. The fig has been mentioned in Vezenobles history since the 14th-century – you’ll see lots of buildings in the village which were used for fig drying and an orchard below that contains no less than 800 fig trees – over a hundred different varieties. It’s lively and there are stalls lining the streets selling food – not just figs!
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One-minute walk
A sculptural artist, who works in plaster with fabric and armature. She works in the medieval part of the village in her vaulted cellars. If you ring the bell she’ll be happy to show you her studio and some of her work.
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Nimes
30-minute drive
The French version of the colosseum (Les Arenes) and the Roman Villa (Maison Carre) are some of the best examples of Roman architecture and host many events – but no gladiators anymore. Just wandering around the old centre is a delight and there is history in every building. Book a walking tour with a guide to make the most of it.
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Tues – Sat: 06:00 – 13:00 & 16:00-1930
Sun: 06:00 – 12:00
Meet the locals at this traditional French bakery with lovely breads and pastries including some patisserie, snacks and sandwiches.
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15-minute walk, open alternate mornings and afternoons
A feast of organic fruit and vegetables, breads, cheeses, meats and dried goods – get there early on Saturdays or you’ll find it’s been well depleted. If you go in winter there is a big open fire so it’s gloriously cosy.
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Au Petit Marche
10-minute walk
A little local shop selling good quality food – excellent fruit and vegetables, local honeys, salt from the Camargue, fruit juices, wines and many other local specialities.
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Carrefour Market
A 15-minute walk
A very well-stocked shop with an excellent butcher and just behind it is the tiny Le Gout des Mets for totally authentic Italian produce.
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Marche de Vezenobres
A short walk, open Thursday all year round, Tuesday in summer
The Thursday market sells fruit and vegetables and the freshest fish. The Tuesday market has extra little things like pottery and bags. There’s a long, covered table where you can eat a delicious lunch (from Alban, a colourful local who cooks good food) with other villagers and enjoy a cup of beer. Or buy wine from Simon who ploughs his vineyard still using a horse and plough.
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Uzes
25-minute drive, Weds & Sat
This vibrant, stylish market takes place in the Place aux Herbes and it is quite extraordinary. It’s thronged with locals and visitors who mill around meeting passionate food producers. This isn’t just a place to buy food, it’s a social and economic hub where you’ll hear some juicy gossip – even if you don’t understand it. Try the locally-made brandade with tiny tasty olives for a salad lunch.
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Les Halles de l’Abbaye d’Alès
15-minute drive
A covered market of a different ilk and well worth a visit. You can visit the catacombs of the abbey when you’ve finished browsing the stalls.
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Sommieres
Saturday
Get there early so you can find a parking space. Find lines of colourful stands laden with porcelain, curious objects, rugs and furniture in the shade of ancient maple trees. There is a cafe at one end with a terrace if you need a mid-morning coffee break. At lunch pick a snack and head to La Cabane under the arches on a square. They will let you eat what you bring as long as you also buy their wines and home-produced seafood. You may need to queue but it’s worth it.
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A wonderful brocante open twice a year, during four days around the 15th August and Easter weekend. The characteristic village transforms into a giant open-air antique and brocante fair with over 400 exhibitors. but you will need to check when it’s on. I think there is a bi-annual huge antique fair here too but not sure.
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They produce four very good wine ranges – the Libre Cours, Mosaïque and Crus range
and their Sélection Parcellaire. Their shop is just a short walk from Le Porche.
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17-min drive
At the foot of the Cévennes massif you’ll find the Domaine de l’Orviel. White wines include Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon. The other half of the vineyard is planted with Syrah, Grenach, Merlot and other delicious reds. Come to taste and to buy.
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30-minute drive
Discover more about Roman history – much of it is interactive so older children can enjoy it too. If the rain stops head out to the Arenes, Maison Carree and then dive into one of Nimes’ reputed restaurants for lunch: Gigi, Aux Plaisirs des Halles, Rouge and many others.
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1hr 10-drive / 2hr train, July for almost the whole month.
This is within easy reach and a clear winner in terms of culture. The streets buzz with atmosphere as the various actors and groups walk around enticing you to pop into their show. There’s so much happening it’s difficult to choose. A bit like Edinburgh.
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The Camargue
1-hour drive
Visit tiny circular Aigues Mortes; enjoy vibrant Sete and its beach; buy wine at Savary de Beauregard close to Pezenas (which has a lovely market) and swim or take out a pedalo at glorious St Guilhem-le-Desert.
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